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Pigeon, Turret, Monitor & Animas — Ruby Creek 4-Day Backpack

Other climbers: Kyle Knutson — ✓ all · Shawn D Keil — 2 of 4 (Pigeon Peak, Turret Peak A)

At a glance — 4-day trip

4 peaks · ~8.37 h drive

  • Day 1 (Pack-in (Needleton to Ruby Creek camp)): 5.2 mi · 3,640 ft gain · Class 1
  • Day 2 (Pigeon + Turret): 4.9 mi · 4,572 ft gain · Class 4 · 2 peaks
  • Day 3 (Monitor + Animas): 3.9 mi · 3,368 ft gain · Class 4 · 2 peaks
  • Day 4 (Pack-out (Ruby Creek camp to Needleton)): 5.2 mi · 3,640 ft gain · Class 1

NOAA weather link: Pigeon, Turret, Monitor & Animas — Ruby Creek 4-Day Backpack Weather

Drive from Highland: 8h 25m to Durango via Google Maps

CalTopo research map: https://caltopo.com/m/J72Q110

Researched: 2026-08-30

Status in Peak Checklist: All four are unclimbed for Emily. Pigeon is Colorado's 57th-ranked summit — an iconic "Matterhorn-shaped" peak that soars a full mile above the Animas River and is visible from the train ride in. The Ruby Creek basin is one of the Weminuche's most isolated alpine sanctuaries; the difficulty of reaching it keeps it nearly empty compared to the crowds one drainage over in Chicago Basin.

Overview map

Note: the recommended route was distilled from 19 recorded GPS tracks of real trips (14ers.com · ListsofJohn · peakbagger) — all layered on the interactive CalTopo research map.

Peaks covered

Four ranked 13ers deep in the Needle Mountains section of the Weminuche Wilderness (San Juan National Forest), accessible exclusively by the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad — no vehicle road reaches this country. Pigeon, Turret, Monitor, and Animas surround the flat Ruby Creek meadow at 11,625', which serves as basecamp for both climbing days. No permits or fees are required for the Weminuche; standard wilderness LNT rules apply — no fires above treeline, food must be hung or secured against the basin's notably aggressive marmot population (climb13ers: "they can climb vertical rock walls").

Peak Elev Class CO rank Day Status
Pigeon Peak 13,977' 3 58 2 unclimbed
Turret Peak A 13,837' 2 92 2 unclimbed
Monitor Peak 13,707' 4 143 3 unclimbed
Animas Mountain 13,789' 4 113 3 unclimbed

Day 1 — Pack-in (Needleton to Ruby Creek camp)

5.2 mi · ~3,640 ft, Class 1 — the train drops at Needleton (8,220'). Cross the footbridge over the Animas, then follow the notoriously difficult-to-navigate Ruby Creek trail northeast to the upper basin at 11,625'. Climb13ers calls it "so steep at times you may find yourself using aspen trees for an assist" and warns that finding the correct start is the first challenge. Key navigation cruxes: take the steeper right fork at the North Pigeon Creek crossing (~9,500') and stay on the north side of Ruby Lake at water level. Three summer source recordings confirm the corridor. Mileage is a floor; plan extra time for routefinding.

Day 1 sequence

  1. Needleton TH (8,220') — step off the train and cross the footbridge over the Animas River
  2. Head north past the cabins; cross Pigeon Creek (usually non-issue)
  3. At the meadow's north end, find the fallen log (~37°38'17"N) — Ruby Creek trail heads right ~20 ft past it; look for the weak trail up a dirt bank
  4. North Pigeon Creek crossing (~9,500') — take the steeper right (NE) fork after crossing; the less-used trail heading NE above the creek is correct
  5. Trail junction at ~9,800' — left fork for Ruby Creek; the right fork goes to N. Pigeon drainage
  6. Navigate north side of Ruby Lake at water level; at the lake's east end, look for a gully trail heading north on the west side of the cliff band (~11,300')
  7. Ruby Creek upper meadow camp (~11,625') — flat grassy bench with a 20' rock wall at the rear and Ruby Creek running through

Day 2 — Pigeon + Turret

4.9 mi · ~4,572 ft, Class 4 — Pigeon via the NW Couloir Classic (climb13ers Class 3, with a possible Class 4 crux: Roach notes a "15-ft steep chimney-like slot" near the north ridge; the climb13ers party did not exceed Class 3 themselves but acknowledge "others may find" it 4th class). From camp, a "great couloir sweeps down from the summit of Pigeon, first north, then NW, then west" — hike steeply on tundra at the base, then boulder talus and stacked granite blocks near the top where "progress reaches 3rd class scrambling." After Pigeon, traverse south to the Pigeon-Turret saddle (~12,740') then an easy Class 2+ ascent on Turret's west slopes — "even in 1991, we found a fairly well-used trail here through broken rock, talus, gravel and tundra." Visit order Pigeon first per Class 3+ terrain rule and Kyle's deviation (2026-08-25). Composed from trk_loj_16158 (Summer 2024) corridor anchored to camp.

Day 2 sequence

  1. Ruby Creek camp (11,625') — head up the great NW couloir that sweeps from Pigeon's summit toward the meadow
  2. Steep tundra at first; progressively rockier with boulder talus and stacked granite near the upper couloir
  3. Near the north ridge, veer right (south) into the center gully; Class 3 scrambling on broken, cleft granite blocks — watch for the possible ~15-ft Class 4 chimney crux (carry confidence that it is short and solid)
  4. Pigeon Peak summit (13,977') — ~1.5 hrs from camp; views straight down to the Animas River; watch for the early morning train
  5. Descend the NW couloir back to the basin; traverse south to the Pigeon-Turret saddle (~12,740')
  6. Head east/ESE up Turret's west-facing slopes on talus/tundra trail (Class 2+)
  7. Turret Peak A summit (13,837') — views of Pigeon's east face and Monitor/Animas/Peak 15 across Ruby Creek
  8. Return via the saddle and NW basin corridor to camp (~4.9 mi total, ~4,572 ft gain)

Day 3 — Monitor + Animas

3.9 mi · ~3,368 ft, Class 4 — the hardest day. Monitor via the West Basin-North Ridge route (climb13ers Class 4). From camp, head NE up a steep grassy slope into the Monitor/Animas basin. Gain tundra, then loose talus below Peak Thirteen's cliffs. The route uses the prominent upper ledge/ramp across Peak 13's SW face — "a huge gash across the face, unmistakable, easy to gain and follow, never too steep" — arriving at the Peak 13-Monitor saddle. From there, drop slightly onto the west side and traverse three steep sand/gravel couloirs separated by rock ribs: "short (10 ft.) near-vertical, 4th class maneuvering on generally solid rock" — no rope used by the beta party (climb13ers) but "some may find the connecting ridge section to be intimidating." Class 3 scrambling from the far side to Monitor's summit. Day 3 also tags the unranked Peak Thirteen (~13,575') essentially free on the traverse to Animas, and Animas Mountain via its Class 3 summit couloir. Composed from trk_14ers_3 (Aug 2022) corridor.

Day 3 sequence

  1. Ruby Creek camp (11,625') — head NE up steep grassy slope into the Monitor/Animas/Peak 13 basin
  2. Tundra then loose talus below Peak Thirteen's cliffs (~12,800')
  3. Gain the prominent upper ledge/ramp (the "unmistakable gash") across Peak 13's SW face — exits at the Peak 13-Monitor saddle (~13,450')
  4. Drop slightly onto the west side, cross three sand/gravel couloirs — brief Class 4 moves on the intervening rock ribs (~10 ft near-vertical each)
  5. Class 3 ridge scrambling to Monitor Peak summit (13,707') — views of the east face sport routes and Jagged Mtn. in the distance
  6. Backtrack to the saddle; tag Peak Thirteen (unranked, ~13,575') — essentially free on route, worth the short side-trip
  7. Descend Peak 13's north ridge to the 13,500' saddle; contour toward the Animas summit couloir
  8. Up the steep couloir on talus and boulder; brief Class 3 moves near the top exit right over blocks and ledges
  9. Animas Mountain summit (13,789') — views of Pigeon's imposing east face and Heisspitz to the north
  10. Descend from Animas down the prominent south gully on sand/talus; traverse back across the basin to camp (~3.9 mi total, ~3,368 ft gain)

Day 4 — Pack-out (Ruby Creek camp to Needleton)

5.2 mi · ~3,640 ft, Class 1 — reverse of the Day 1 pack-in on the same Ruby Creek trail, now heading out with full packs (lighter on food, heavier on memories). The DEM gain figure reflects the undulations on descent — net elevation change is a large loss back to 8,220'. Trekking poles are especially useful on the steep sections. Routefinding is slightly easier on the way out since the trail is now familiar; allow the same time buffer for Ruby Lake navigation.

Day 4 sequence

  1. Ruby Creek upper meadow camp (~11,625') — break camp and descend Ruby Creek trail west
  2. Navigate south side of Ruby Lake back to the west end (reverse of Day 1 approach)
  3. Descend steep Ruby Creek trail to the trail junction at ~9,800' (right fork on the way out)
  4. Cross North Pigeon Creek (~9,500'), continue down to Pigeon Creek junction
  5. Follow trail south through Campers Meadow, past the cabins
  6. Cross the footbridge over the Animas River to Needleton TH (8,220') — board the D&SNG train back to Durango or Silverton

Getting there — Needleton TH (8,220')
Drive from Highland 8h 25m to Durango via Google Maps
Trailhead Needleton TH, 37.6335, -107.6928, 8,220'
Road Train only — no vehicle road. Board the D&SNG at Durango (main departure); confirm current Silverton boarding policy at durangotrain.com before the trip — as of 2021, southbound afternoon trains stop at Elk Park only, not Needleton. Train ride ~1 hour Durango → Needleton. Book tickets in advance.
Land San Juan National Forest / Weminuche Wilderness. No permits, no fees. LNT rules: no fires above treeline, pack out all waste. Hang food or use a bear canister — the Ruby Creek marmots are notorious and emboldened.

Gear & season

  • Season: Best mid-July through mid-September — 14 source tracks spanning 11 separate seasons (2011–2026), including July, August, and September records. Ice axe recommended (both Pigeon and Monitor beta pages flag this) for early-season snow in the NW couloir and Monitor couloirs; micro-spikes useful through early July.
  • Class 4 terrain, Day 3: The Day 3 headliner is Monitor's West Basin-North Ridge. The Class 4 moves are concentrated at the rock-rib traverses near the Peak 13-Monitor saddle — brief (~10 ft near-vertical each), on solid rock, no rope needed per climb13ers, but "some may find the connecting ridge section to be intimidating." Pigeon's NW couloir is Class 3 with a possible Class 4 chimney crux (Roach; climb13ers party did not encounter it at 4th class). Carry the confidence that technical terrain is short and isolated — the rest of both days is Class 2–3.
  • Marmots: Ruby Creek camp is famous for emboldened marmots that can climb vertical rock walls. Hang food in a drybag midway on the cliff wall behind camp. Keep boots inside the tent; keep anything salty away from reach. Climb13ers: "We've had marmots chew their way into our tent."
  • Storms: San Juans afternoon thunder is routine. Plan to be below treeline by noon on summit days. The 4-day schedule gives morning starts from a stable base camp.
  • Routefinding: Ruby Creek trail is genuinely difficult to follow — finding the correct start and navigating around Ruby Lake are the principal challenges. Study climb13ers' detailed approach notes and pre-load the waypoints before the trip. Monitor rated "Difficult" (climb13ers routefinding rating).
  • Cell service: None expected in the Ruby Creek basin.

Other considerations

  • Far from home: The D&SNG departs from Durango — 8h 25m from Highland. Justify the drive by pairing with other San Juan objectives: the Silverton/Ouray area has numerous 13ers and 14ers within 1–2 hours of Durango; a week-long San Juan loop could make this very efficient. This report pairs well with Silverton-area 13ers or a Ouray/Red Mountain area trip on the same drive.
  • Train logistics: Book tickets on the D&SNG website in advance. As of 2021, boarding from Silverton for a Needleton drop is no longer available on the southbound afternoon train; plan a Durango departure. Confirm the current schedule before the trip — policy has changed multiple times.
  • Peak Thirteen (unranked): Day 3 passes over Peak Thirteen (~13,575') on the Monitor → Animas traverse — it's not a ranked summit (insufficient prominence from Animas Mtn.) but is essentially free on route. Worth tagging.
  • Other Ruby Creek peaks: Peak Fifteen (13,786') and Peak Twelve sit in the same basin but are not included in this report. Both are Class 2–3 and could be added on Day 2 or Day 3 for a denser itinerary.
  • Animas River ford (backup): If the Needleton footbridge is unusable, an Animas ford is possible when flow is under 150 cfs (USGS gauge 09359020). Cross with ice axe and a sturdy stick, unlatched pack straps, and wading shoes. The footbridge crossing is strongly preferred.
  • Day 2 "Class 4" note: The Day 2 header reflects a conservative reading of the Roach guide's Class 4 chimney crux on Pigeon's north ridge. The climb13ers party climbed Pigeon in 1991 and found the route held at Class 3; both assessments are sourced and both are reasonable — be prepared for Class 4 moves on Pigeon if your line encounters the chimney.

Trip reports & GPX (all three sources)

Sources confirmed logged in: 14ers.com ("Basin"), listsofjohn.com ("letsgocu"), peakbagger.com ("Kyle Knutson"). All three swept fresh for this build, plus the mapped OSM trails in the bbox — all layered on the research map.

  • 14ers.com: 14 track(s) harvested (+2 duplicate(s) of another source). All four peak pages present: Pigeon (Class 3, NW Couloir Classic), Turret (Class 2, NW Slope), Monitor (Class 4, West Basin-North Ridge), Animas (Class 3, East Ridge Couloir). Pages include approach descriptions, route ratings, and terrain condition breakdowns. 11 clean summer-season recordings spanning 2011–2026; three winter tracks excluded.

  • listsofjohn.com: 4 track(s) harvested (+1 duplicate(s) of another source). Four peak pages (pids 73 Pigeon, 111 Turret, 181 Monitor, 135 Animas) confirming coordinates, elevation, prominence, and isolation. The July 2024 trk_loj_16158 (Pigeon+Turret, 20.5 mi one-way via Purgatory) provides the primary corridor anchor for Day 2.

  • peakbagger.com: 2 track(s) harvested (+4 duplicate(s) of another source). Four peak pages (pids 5856 Pigeon, 5857 Turret, 17422 Monitor, 5855 Animas) confirming summit data. trk_pb_2 (31.6 mi RT from Purgatory) provides additional Pigeon+Turret corridor evidence.

Sources checked: 14ers.com ✓ (logged in, "Basin") · listsofjohn.com ✓ (logged in, "letsgocu") · peakbagger.com ✓ (logged in, "Kyle Knutson")