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Pigeon, Turret, Monitor & Animas — Needleton train backpack

Other climbers: Kyle Knutson — ✓ all · Shawn D Keil — 2 of 4 (Pigeon Peak, Turret Peak A)

At a glance — 4-day trip

4 peaks · ~8.37 h drive

  • Day 1 (Pack-in (Needleton to Ruby Creek camp)): 5.2 mi · 3,640 ft gain · Class 1
  • Day 2 (Pigeon + Turret): 4.9 mi · 4,572 ft gain · Class 4 · 2 peaks
  • Day 3 (Monitor + Animas): 3.9 mi · 3,368 ft gain · Class 4 · 2 peaks
  • Day 4 (Pack-out (Ruby Creek camp to Needleton)): 5.2 mi · 3,640 ft gain · Class 1

NOAA weather link: Pigeon, Turret, Monitor & Animas — Needleton train backpack Weather

CalTopo research map: https://caltopo.com/m/0DFSN7F

Researched: 2026-08-25

Status in Peak Checklist: all four unclimbed — the Ruby Creek group is one of the Weminuche Wilderness' most committing objectives: train-only access, a serious alpine hike to basecamp, and two days of Class 4 scrambling from the same high camp. Pigeon, Turret, Monitor, and Animas together represent a meaningful first entry in Kyle's Weminuche log.

Overview map

Note: the recommended route was distilled from 18 recorded GPS tracks of real trips (14ers.com · ListsofJohn · peakbagger) — all layered on the interactive CalTopo research map.

Peaks covered

Four ranked 13ers deep in the Weminuche Wilderness (San Juan National Forest), all accessed from the upper Ruby Creek drainage — a pocket of dramatic alpine terrain reachable only by the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. No permits or entry fees; standard Wilderness rules apply (group size ≤ 15, camp ≥ 100 ft from water and trails, pack out all waste). Pigeon (13,977') soars a full mile above the Animas canyon in a series of striking rock towers; Turret (13,837') is its immediate neighbor and the easiest of the group; Monitor (13,707') and Animas Mountain (13,789') form a separate sub-group to the northeast of the Ruby Creek camp. The trip's headline class is 4 — both summit days carry Class 4 moves (Pigeon's 15-ft chimney crux and Monitor's three-couloir crossing). climb13ers groups all four peaks under the "Ruby Creek summits" label on the same basin map.

Peak Elev Class CO rank Day Status
Pigeon Peak 13,977' 3 58 2 unclimbed
Turret Peak A 13,837' 2 92 2 unclimbed
Monitor Peak 13,707' 4 143 3 unclimbed
Animas Mountain 13,789' 4 113 3 unclimbed

Day 1 — Pack-in (Needleton to Ruby Creek camp)

5.2 mi · ~3,640 ft, Class 1 — the Ruby Creek Trail from the Needleton footbridge to the upper-basin basecamp. Not a casual walk-in: climb13ers warns of very steep sections requiring tree-assist, willow bushwhack near Ruby Lake, and confusing junctions — 5.2 mi gaining nearly 3,400' to the meadow camp at 11,624'. Three recorded approach tracks (trk_14ers_2, trk_14ers_13, and the approach segment of trk_14ers_3) confirm the corridor; the trail follows Ruby Creek throughout. Allow 4–5 hours with a pack.

Day 1 sequence

  1. Durango D&SNG depot (~6,512') — board the morning train; ~3–3.5 h to the Needleton flag stop (book a seat and request the whistle stop in advance).
  2. Needleton (8,235') — exit the train, cross the Animas River footbridge.
  3. Pick up the Ruby Creek Trail heading east up the canyon.
  4. Steep sustained ascent — very steep sections; tree-assist required in places; watch for willow bushwhack near Ruby Lake.
  5. Navigate junctions carefully; stay on Ruby Creek drainage (not Needle Creek or Chicago Basin forks).
  6. Ruby Creek camp (11,624') — upper meadow basecamp; set up for two summit days.

Day 2 — Pigeon + Turret

4.9 mi · ~4,572 ft, Class 4 — from camp, head south and southwest toward Pigeon Peak's SW basin: steep tundra couloir, boulder talus, stacked granite blocks. The summit block is broken granite with large cracks — "much like Sunlight Peak" (climb13ers). Class 4 crux: a 15-ft near-vertical chimney-like slot (documented by Roach); the northern summit is the true high point. Descend back toward the Pigeon-Turret saddle, then ascend ESE up Turret's NW slopes through broken rock, talus, and tundra — the only true walk-up of the Ruby Creek group (Class 2+, climb13ers). Return to camp on the same line. Ice axe recommended early season for the Pigeon couloir; helmet strongly recommended throughout. No rope needed per all sources; confident scrambling required. No summer closed-loop recording from camp covers this day — the composed line is synthesized from available tracks including the corridor evidence from trk_loj_16158 (outbound direction Pigeon→Turret, confirmed).

Day 2 sequence

  1. Ruby Creek camp (11,624') — depart south/southwest toward Pigeon's SW basin.
  2. Gain the basin via steep tundra couloir (ice axe if early season).
  3. Ascend boulder talus and stacked granite blocks up Pigeon's upper summit pyramid.
  4. Class 4 crux: 15-ft near-vertical chimney-like slot.
  5. Pigeon Peak (13,977', CO rank #58) — northern summit is the true high point. Matterhorn-shaped; soars a full mile above the Animas River.
  6. Descend to the Pigeon-Turret saddle (retrace the approach).
  7. Ascend ESE on Turret's NW slopes — broken rock, talus, tundra (Class 2+, ~300' gain from the saddle).
  8. Turret Peak A (13,837', CO rank #92) — the group's gentlest summit.
  9. Descend back to Ruby Creek camp (11,624').

Day 3 — Monitor + Animas

3.9 mi · ~3,368 ft, Class 4 — from camp, head northeast ascending a steep grassy slope ~800' toward Peak Thirteen, then follow the "unmistakable gash" — a 6-ft-wide ledge/ramp across Peak Thirteen's SW face — to the Thirteen-Monitor saddle. Class 4 crux band: cross three steep couloirs on Monitor's west side; at each rock rib between couloirs, expect a short (~10 ft) near-vertical move on generally solid granite — "We did not require rope" (climb13ers). Class 3 ridge scramble above the couloir band to Monitor's summit. For Animas: descend Monitor's north ridge back through the couloirs to the Thirteen-Monitor saddle, traverse Peak Thirteen's south ridge (exposed sub-summit), drop to the 13,500' saddle, and ascend the East Ridge couloir; the couloir exit — climbing right over blocks and ledges — is the crux (Class 3 to most, Class 4 by some accounts; peak_db lists Class 4). climb13ers calls the Monitor–Peak 13–Animas sequence "a very entertaining day." The definitive recording is trk_14ers_7 (2022-09, closed loop from Ruby Creek camp, 3.9 mi, covering Monitor→Animas and returning to camp — the only summer from-camp loop over both objectives).

Day 3 sequence

  1. Ruby Creek camp (11,624') — depart northeast.
  2. Ascend steep grassy slope ~800' toward Peak Thirteen.
  3. Follow the "unmistakable gash" — 6-ft-wide ledge/ramp across Peak Thirteen's SW face.
  4. Reach the Thirteen-Monitor saddle.
  5. Cross three steep couloirs on Monitor's west side — Class 4 rock ribs (~10 ft near-vertical, solid granite, no rope needed).
  6. Class 3 ridge scramble above the couloir band.
  7. Monitor Peak (13,707', CO rank #143) — summit.
  8. Descend Monitor's north ridge back through the couloir band to the Thirteen-Monitor saddle.
  9. Traverse Peak Thirteen's south ridge (exposed sub-summit).
  10. Descend to the 13,500' saddle.
  11. Ascend the steep East Ridge couloir to Animas Mountain (13,789', CO rank #113) — exit crux (Class 3–4, blocks and ledges).
  12. Descend couloir and traverse back to Ruby Creek camp (11,624').

Day 4 — Pack-out (Ruby Creek camp to Needleton)

5.2 mi · ~3,640 ft, Class 1 — the Ruby Creek Trail in reverse, back down to the Needleton footbridge and the D&SNG return train to Durango. Same ground as Day 1 — same junctions, same steep sections — now with tired legs and a pack. The D&SNG train schedule governs the departure window; plan the descent with enough margin to reach Needleton before the train arrives.

Day 4 sequence

  1. Ruby Creek camp (11,624') — break camp; descend.
  2. Follow the Ruby Creek Trail downvalley — steep in sections, same junctions as Day 1 in reverse.
  3. Needleton (8,235') — cross the Animas River footbridge; flag the D&SNG whistle stop.
  4. Train back to Durango D&SNG depot (~3–3.5 h).

Getting there — Needleton (D&SNG train stop / Animas footbridge) (8,230')
Drive from Boulder 8h 25m via Google Maps
Trailhead Needleton (D&SNG train stop / Animas footbridge), 37.6335, -107.6928, 8,230'
Road No vehicle access. The Needleton flag stop is train-only — the Animas River canyon has no road reaching it. Drive to the Durango D&SNG depot and park there (fee lot); the train provides the only access to and exit from the Weminuche corridor.
Land San Juan National Forest, Weminuche Wilderness. No entry permits, no fees; standard Wilderness Leave No Trace rules (group size ≤ 15, camp ≥ 100 ft from water and trails, pack out all waste). The D&SNG right-of-way crosses private parcels near Needleton; the Wilderness boundary begins at the footbridge.

Gear & season

  • Best window: late July through mid-September. All usable recordings fall July–September; 2 winter tracks (Dec 2020, Feb 2022) excluded. Below mid-July: significant snow persists in the NW Pigeon couloir and on the Ruby Creek approach — ice axe recommended on both summit days until the couloirs clear (climb13ers explicit).
  • Terrain & protection: both summit days are Class 4. Helmet strongly recommended on Day 2 (Pigeon chimney crux, summit block) and Day 3 (Monitor's couloir ribs, Animas exit crux). All sources agree a rope was not required; confident scrambling and solid footwork are the prerequisites. Bring crampons + ice axe for early-season Pigeon couloir.
  • Approach difficulty: the Ruby Creek trail earns its reputation — very steep, tree-assist sections, willow bushwhack near Ruby Lake, multiple confusing junctions. Do not underestimate the pack-in; allow 4–5 hours.
  • Camp hazards: aggressive marmots at Ruby Creek meadow. Hang all food and scented items from a vertical rock wall; keep clothing and boots inside the tent (climb13ers explicit warning).
  • Water: Ruby Creek flows through the meadow; treat or filter.
  • Storms: standard San Juan alpinism. Aim off both summit days well before noon. Day 3's route-finding on Monitor's couloir band and Animas' exit crux are exactly where you do not want weather closing in.
  • Cell: zero coverage in the Weminuche. Carry an InReach or satellite messenger.
  • Train logistics: D&SNG summer seats sell out — book well in advance. Request the Needleton flag stop at the Durango depot when booking; confirm the current season's whistle-stop procedure. Summer schedule typically departs Durango ~8am; verify the timetable for your trip date.

Other considerations

Far-from-home pairing (8h 25m from Boulder): the Durango area is most efficient as part of a broader Southwest Colorado swing. The D&SNG train also stops at Elk Park (near Molas Pass), opening the Grenadier group (Vestal, Arrow, Trinity) as a natural companion trip — same train, different drainage, an entirely separate camp. Silverton-area peaks (Stony Pass corridor) can be added on the drive home. The train also runs Silverton → Needleton, so driving to Silverton first and taking the train south is a valid point-to-point option if combining with Silverton-area objectives.

Jupiter Mountain: shares the D&SNG train ride but requires a different camp at Chicago Basin (Needle Creek drainage, not Ruby Creek). See the jupiter_pigeon_turret report for the extended Jupiter+Pigeon+Turret itinerary using the same train approach.

Peak Fifteen: sits 0.64 mi from Pigeon and shares the Ruby Creek corridor, but is rated Class 5.2 — technical climbing, rope required. Out of scope for this report.

Mileage floor: the measured day distances (5.2 / 4.9 / 3.9 / 5.2 mi) are composed-line minima. Budget 15–25% more on the summit days for natural talus wandering and ridge terrain. DEM gain figures (3,640 / 4,572 / 3,368 / 3,640 ft) are authoritative.

Day order (Pigeon first, Monitor second): per Kyle's stated itinerary. The research independently preferred Monitor→Animas first (fresh-legs argument for the more complex routefinding), but Kyle's direction is the input — Pigeon+Turret on Day 2, Monitor+Animas on Day 3.

Trip reports & GPX (all three sources)

Sources confirmed logged in: 14ers.com ("Basin"), listsofjohn.com ("letsgocu"), peakbagger.com ("Kyle Knutson"). All three swept fresh for this build, plus the mapped OSM trails in the bbox — all layered on the research map.

  • 14ers.com: 13 track(s) harvested (+2 duplicate(s) of another source). Peak pages exist for Pigeon, Turret, Monitor, and Animas; tracks span 2011–2024 across the Ruby Creek, Chicago Basin, and Purgatory corridors — the strongest single-source pool for this group.

  • listsofjohn.com: 4 track(s) harvested (+1 duplicate(s) of another source). All four peak pages confirmed (loj ids 73 Pigeon, 111 Turret, 181 Monitor, 135 Animas); the trk_loj_16158 Ruby Creek → Purgatory one-way recording (2024-07) provided the definitive Pigeon→Turret corridor evidence from camp.

  • peakbagger.com: 2 track(s) harvested (+4 duplicate(s) of another source). All four peaks confirmed via peakbagger peak pages; most peakbagger tracks were duplicates of 14ers or LoJ recordings already in the pool.

Sources checked: 14ers.com ✓ (logged in, "Basin") · listsofjohn.com ✓ (logged in, "letsgocu") · peakbagger.com ✓ (logged in, "Kyle Knutson")